Andrew Guard

2022 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett, Hofgut Falkenstein

The 2022er Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Kugel Peter (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print on the label after the AP number) was harvested on 50-year-old from partially un-grafted vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard, which was classified in the highest category on the old taxation maps, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It shows a beautifully fresh and finely aromatic nose of spices, gooseberry, cassis, rote redcurrant, herbal tea, and lime. The wine is beautifully playful and still compact on the palate, as the juicy elements of yellow fruits are wrapped into bright and lively juicy acidity. The finish is vibrating and superbly energetic. What a great Kabinett! 2029-2042 94pts - Mosel Fine Wines

Erich Weber of Hofgut Falkenstein makes ultra-traditional, mostly dry-tasting Saar Rieslings. He likes to call himself “Winzer Weber.” Winzer is German for winegrower. In other words, the emphasis is on the work in his vineyards. With his tan and rugged face, he looks the part, too.

Erich ferments exclusively with wild yeasts in old wooden casks in a deep, cool cellar, and most of his wines end up either naturally dry (trocken) or off-dry (feinherb). Falkenstein, therefore, is one of the rare Saar producers that specializes in distinctive, bracing, light, dry Rieslings, bottled traditionally by the cask.

Falkenstein makes light-bodied, tangy, wholesome, dry-tasting Saar Rieslings, as well as residually sweet Spätlesen and Auslesen. These are old-style wines for drinking, which often retain a lively (spritzig), natural efferverscence from fermentation. In other words, they go down well — Trinkfluss in German. © 2014 Lars Carlberg