Andrew Guard

2022 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Spätlese, Hofgut Falkenstein

The 2022er Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Spätlese Klaus (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print on the label after the AP number) comes from fruit harvested on 60-year-old vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar. Still very reductive at first and herbal at first, this needs a few minutes in the glass to reveal a superbly attractive and fresh nose of minty herbs, aniseed, elderflower, Conference pear, and mustard seeds. The wine is superbly juicy and mouth-coating on the layered and spicy palate. The finish is layered and finely aromatic. This is a beautiful Spätlese. 2032-2047 94 pts - Mosel Fine Wines

Erich Weber of Hofgut Falkenstein makes ultra-traditional, mostly dry-tasting Saar Rieslings. He likes to call himself “Winzer Weber.” Winzer is German for winegrower. In other words, the emphasis is on the work in his vineyards. With his tan and rugged face, he looks the part, too.

Erich ferments exclusively with wild yeasts in old wooden casks in a deep, cool cellar, and most of his wines end up either naturally dry (trocken) or off-dry (feinherb). Falkenstein, therefore, is one of the rare Saar producers that specializes in distinctive, bracing, light, dry Rieslings, bottled traditionally by the cask.

Falkenstein makes light-bodied, tangy, wholesome, dry-tasting Saar Rieslings, as well as residually sweet Spätlesen and Auslesen. These are old-style wines for drinking, which often retain a lively (spritzig), natural efferverscence from fermentation. In other words, they go down well — Trinkfluss in German. © 2014 Lars Carlberg