Andrew Guard

2015 Barolo del Comune di Barolo, Scarzello Giorgio et Figli

I think Federico may have produced his most elegant Barolo to date, this wine is red fruited and very fine in structure, the maceration in this warm vintage handled sensitively. This again bursts from the glass with racy, perfumed strawberry fruit and exceptional overall balance. Bright red  fruits, mint, flowers, spice and the sensation of crushed rocks are vibrant and lifted - this is a beautifully layered Barolo.

Barolo. Tasted blind. Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Hints of dark earth on the nose but not yet revealing its fruit. Strikingly different on the palate with gutsy, tangy cherry fruit and with plenty of grainy, ripe tannins keeping up the pace. Already irresistible but has the bones for ageing. (WS) 17/20 Walter Speller (Jancis Robinson)

Scarzello Giorgio e Figli is a small gem of an estate housed right in the middle of Barolo. It was pure serendipity that led me to their door this year and I feel very lucky.

This diminutive, traditional, Barolo domaine owns a mere five and a half hectares, nearly half of which are in Sarmassa, one of the region’s top crus. Aromatically enticing, bursting with juicy sweet red fruits and irresistible silky textures.

Today the winery has five and a half hectares planted to Nebbiolo, including 2.5 hectares devoted to the production of Barolo, 2 hectares in the famed Sarmassa cru of Barolo, and another half hectare in Terlo and Paiagallo, both highly coveted sites.

Federico uses traditional long maceration and large cask aging — the hallmarks of traditional-style Barolo — to make these elegant and long-lived wines. The estate’s top label, the Barolo Sarmassa Vigna Merenda, can spend up to 30 months in 25-30 hectoliter Slavonian cask.

The wines are full to the brim of site specific character, charm, and power in equal measure. Federico’s work hails the re-birth of a great, traditional Barolo estate. If you are a fan of traditionally made Baroli then keep your eyes open for the wines of Scarzello. They are very special indeed.