Andrew Guard

2015 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru ‘Kaefferkopf’, Meyer-Fonné

RS 37 g/l. Coppery straw. Light nose. Very rich and dense on the palate that is quite subtle and layered. Intense. Vibrant and long. Very attention-grabbing. Really serious stuff. I love the seriousness of this. Very rich but not just sweet. 13.5% 18/20 Jancis Robinson 15.11.17

When visiting winemakers in Alsace, it rarely happens that a vigneron spontaneously mentions any nearby colleagues, and it is good manners of an importer to not bring up the subject. But I now understand that there is great admiration of the Meyer-Fonné among his Alsace colleagues, and especially admired is the technical skill that Félix Meyer possesses. This brilliant 12 ha domaine exploits vineyards in seven communes.

Wineck-Schlossberg is the village of Katzenthal's Grand Cru and it is very important to Felix who has key holdings in it. The vines grow into granite bedrock and wines produced from granite show a distinct minerality. This marries perfectly in this glorious wine, full of roses, ripe orcahrd fruits and a sprinkling of white pepper.