Andrew Guard

2015 Pernand Vergelesses Blanc “Les Cloux”, Domaine Rollin

This wine is from a  lieu-dit from high up on the hill (between 360 and 380 metres), tucked over the north-western edge of the Bois de Corton. This is a powerful, vivid white burgundy showing lovely cut, brilliant clarity and a harmonious interplay of all the things good in white burgundy. A fine acid thread makes for compelling presence on the palate, as well as good weight and length. The finish lingers with hazelnuts, this has the power and the elegance!

It is worthwhile making a detour to visit the pretty village of Pernand Vergelesses, with its steep and winding streets. Here the hallmark of the wines is finesse, as much for the reds as for the whites. Indeed Pernand Vergelesses is the only Burgundian commune which has the right to produce both red and white wine at every level, from regional appellation to Grand Cru. It is here that the Rollin family have been making wine for four generations, steadily building up the domaine to its current 12ha which cover five communes and produce 14 different appellations.

The vineyard work here is meticulous and, although not certified organic, the methodology in practice is applied in a manner designed to maximize the expression of terroir by eliminating (or reducing to an absolute minimum) any treatments in the vineyards. All grapes are harvested manually and fermentations proceed with indigenous yeasts. The white wines are pressed very gently and undergo long fermentations in barrel and are aged on the fine lees for twelve to fifteen months - the result: outstandingly complex wines to rival the best wines of Burgundy.