Andrew Guard

2015 Volnay 1er Cru 'Brouillards', Thierry Glantenay

Thierry Glantenay’s rows of vines in les Brouillards lie right alongside of those of Louis Boillot and are sixty years of age. The 2015 included one-third whole clusters and is excellent, wafting from the glass in a refined blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, French Roast, dark soil tones and incipient notes of pigeon. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully sappy at the core, with beautiful balance and nascent complexity, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy and focused finish. This is a lovely bottle in the making. 2023-2060+. 92 John Gilman, A View from the Cellar

Thierry Glantenay has taken over at his family domaine and is now producing exquisite, ethereal Volnay from it’s best terroirs and full, powerful Pommard from it’s best terroirs, in fact the Glantenay’s posses most of the great red terroirs from the Côte de Beaune.

They prune hard to take 35 to 40hl/ha at most, and the low yield combined with vine age gives Volnay wines with extra depth and Pommards with extra dimension to join the structure. Thierry works in lutte raisonnee, i.e. sustainable agriculture. The grapes are hand picked, undergo natural fermentation, either de-stemmed or with whole clusters in some wines, and a little pigeage at the start, and no pumping. 

Thierry is a meticulous and talented winemaker who uses no more than twenty five percent new oak for any of his wines, allowing for a beautiful synthesis of pure fruit, delicate framing and a beautifully transcribed expression of terroir in each and every wine. There is a refined elegance and perfumed precision to the Glantenay wines which, to me, are amongst the most exciting to taste in the Cote d'Or.