Andrew Guard

2016 Krettnacher Ober Schäfershaus Riesling Spätlese 'Trocken', Hofgut Falkenstein

A very elegant nose driven by floral nuances, white peach, mint and some yeasty notes from spontaneous fermentation gives way to a juicy and ripe structure on the mid-palate. The “roundness” of the fruit flavors is nicely balanced by a zesty kick of acidity. This dry Riesling proves intense yet delivers a mouth-watering feel of salt and lime in the finish. 2019-2031 92pts - Mosel Fine Wines   

Erich Weber of Hofgut Falkenstein makes ultra-traditional, mostly dry-tasting Saar Rieslings. He likes to call himself “Winzer Weber.” Winzer is German for winegrower. In other words, the emphasis is on the work in his vineyards. With his tan and rugged face, he looks the part, too.

Erich ferments exclusively with wild yeasts in old wooden casks in a deep, cool cellar, and most of his wines end up either naturally dry (trocken) or off-dry (feinherb). Falkenstein, therefore, is one of the rare Saar producers that specializes in distinctive, bracing, light, dry Rieslings, bottled traditionally by the cask.

Falkenstein makes light-bodied, tangy, wholesome, dry-tasting Saar Rieslings, as well as residually sweet Spätlesen and Auslesen. These are old-style wines for drinking, which often retain a lively (spritzig), natural efferverscence from fermentation. In other words, they go down well — Trinkfluss in German. © 2014 Lars Carlberg