Andrew Guard

2016 Macon-Loché 'Cuvée du Clocher', Céline & Laurent Tripoz

As far as village-level wines from the Mâconnais go, this is by far one of the best that I have tasted. It is made from Chardonnay that is fermented and aged entirely in tanks to showcase purity and terroir. It is bright, zesty and mineral-laden, showing pretty aromas of orchard fruit, fresh cream, and lime blossom. With admirable incisiveness and concentration on the palate, it shows the cut and drive that seem to typify the 2016 vintage. It finishes long with saline minerals and delicate hints of green apple skin. It has a great energy 

Domaine Tripoz is certified Biodynamic and in addition to that the vineyard work is much what one would expect from a quality-conscious estate: severe pruning, de-budding and leaf-plucking (exclusively on the side facing the rising sun). Green harvesting is only employed however when deemed absolutely necessary. The harvest date is timed to ensure that the grapes are brought in at optimum maturity, thus avoiding the need for any “additions” later on in the winemaking process. The bunches are collected in cases which are taken directly to the cellar to encourage as little damage to the grapes as possible - and by extension as little oxidation - prior to pressing. It should also be noted that in keeping with their non-interventionist philosophy, additions of sulphur are kept to a strict minimum in the cellar.