Andrew Guard

2016 Pernand Vergelesses Rouge, Domaine Rollin

A very attractive red Burgundy from a vintage that, as always, displays early charm. It is very fine and shows glorious sweet fruit and precision already and has a lovely silky, gossamer  texture. Fleeting and sensual in the mouth, it is also about the same price as most generic Bourgogne Rouge and many times the quality. As with all the Rollin wines, it shows impeccable balance and will cellar well.

It is worthwhile making a detour to visit the pretty village of Pernand Vergelesses, with its steep and winding streets. Here the hallmark of the wines is finesse, as much for the reds as for the whites. Indeed Pernand Vergelesses is the only Burgundian commune which has the right to produce both red and white wine at every level, from regional appellation to Grand Cru. It is here that the Rollin family have been making wine for four generations, steadily building up the domaine to its current 12ha which cover five communes and produce 14 different appellations.

The vineyard work here is meticulous and, although not certified organic, the methodology in practice is applied in a manner designed to maximize the expression of terroir by eliminating (or reducing to an absolute minimum) any treatments in the vineyards. All grapes are harvested manually and fermentations proceed with indigenous yeasts. The white wines are pressed very gently and undergo long fermentations in barrel and are aged on the fine lees for twelve to fifteen months - the result: outstandingly complex wines to rival the best wines of Burgundy.