Andrew Guard

2017 Beaujolais 'Cuvée Kéké', Kevin Descombes

Classic Beaujolais nose: red berries, vine sap, earth, hints of game and iodine. Clean and quite dry. Light-bodied and not particularly concentrated but wonderfully pure. The ripe fruit is laced with slate and stems. Fluid acidity keeps things fresh and adds a tang to the finish that calls you back for another sip. Yum

Kewin “Kéké” Descombes is the son of legendary winemaker Georges Descombes and half-brother of Damian Coquelet He made his first wine under his own name in 2013, when he was 21. His approach is similar to his father’s (organic farming, semi-carbonic maceration, indigenous yeasts, minimal or no sulphur).

Georges has been handing over some parcels to his twentysomething son Kewin, who clearly has his father’s knack and is an understudy of Fred Cossard, say no more ! These are terrific wines from old vines planted in the high country of Morgon near Vermont, the family’s hamlet. They all have real presence and depth in the glass – cool, succulent fruit and a billowing perfume, a sappy stony mouthfeel with lovely sinewy length. Very impressive!