Andrew Guard

2017 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Auslese, Hofgut Falkenstein

The 2017er Euchariusberg Auslese (known internally as the “Gross Schock Kupp” cask) was harvested at 97° Oechsle from young vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard and fermented with 80 g/l of residual sugar. The wine develops a gorgeous nose made of apricot, honey, pear, greengage and fine herbs. It remains beautifully pure and precise on the palate and just unfolds a gorgeously creamy side. The finish is all about racy smoothness underpinned by honeyed apricot. 2027-2047 95pts - Mosel Fine Wines

Erich Weber of Hofgut Falkenstein makes ultra-traditional, mostly dry-tasting Saar Rieslings. He likes to call himself “Winzer Weber.” Winzer is German for winegrower. In other words, the emphasis is on the work in his vineyards. With his tan and rugged face, he looks the part, too.

Erich ferments exclusively with wild yeasts in old wooden casks in a deep, cool cellar, and most of his wines end up either naturally dry (trocken) or off-dry (feinherb). Falkenstein, therefore, is one of the rare Saar producers that specializes in distinctive, bracing, light, dry Rieslings, bottled traditionally by the cask.

Falkenstein makes light-bodied, tangy, wholesome, dry-tasting Saar Rieslings, as well as residually sweet Spätlesen and Auslesen. These are old-style wines for drinking, which often retain a lively (spritzig), natural efferverscence from fermentation. In other words, they go down well — Trinkfluss in German. © 2014 Lars Carlberg