Andrew Guard


It's no secret Bruna produce some of the finest wine in Italy, on a small scale and bottles are difficult to procure, but they well worth it - these wines stir emotion!

Established in 1970 by Riccardo Bruna, Azienda Agricola Bruna is a tiny 7.5 hectare estate consisting of a few specific vineyard plots, all planted on terraced vineyards hewn out of the mountainside at about 250 meters above sea level and only 15km from the Mediterranean. This area is very beautiful and remote and is known for its production of olives, cherries and aromatic herbs, such as rosemary, thyme and sage.

Bruna is currently run by Riccardo’s daughter Francesca and her husband, Roberto. Having spent some time with both of them it is easy to see why the quaity of the wines is so exceptional - there is careful thought, attention to detail, reflection and respect evident in all they do. The estate has worked organically since 2009.

Pigato is a white grape genetically identical to Vermentino, but stylistically distinct: more sapidly saline with hints of scrubland herbs - it’s an open secret in Liguria that tiny Bruna make the best Pigato.

Francesca and Roberto’s vineyards are in the Arroscia valley, dotted around the town of Ranzo and Ortovero. The name derives from the Ligurian word pigau, referring to the small amber pighe (spots) on the grape skins. It likes to be grown near the seaside, and has a sapid salinty, as well as scrubland herb aromas.

Three examples are made here depending on soil type (limestone/clay and terra rossa) and vine age. In addition to Pigato, Bruna makes a handful of red wines based on the local Granaccia variety, a variant of Grenache but also with various other varieties from Italy and even France!

These are rare but very wonderful wines.

Written by Andrew Guard — October 10, 2017