Andrew Guard

2022 Anjou Blanc 'Grand Vau' Nature, Terra Vita Vinum

Grand Vau is located in the commune of Mozé and cultivated on volcanic rhyolite and sandstone schist. 14 months on its fine lees, in demi-muids, with no racking or movement. Bottled with no additions, fining or filtration. This is always a racy wine and in 2022 it is very taught and tense, but there is a beauty and expressiveness from the volcanic soils, and this is wonderfully balanced and full of zesty energy. Just superb

Some of their parcel-based white cuvées, already on allocation, are sold out even before bottling, even the best tasters struggle to distinguish from Richard Leroy's iconic and highly speculative cuvées in blind tastings. And the duo confess that ‘in no way do we want to produce the same wines as Richard’. But this grand chenin has a remarkable aromatic complexity, marked by a slight autolysis and smoky notes typical of Richard Leroy's wines, which extend to floral notes, honeysuckle and white-fleshed fruit, with a strong mineral undertone. It also affirms their identity, that of a top-class estate.

One drawback, though? It would seem that, like Richard Leroy's wines, their cuvées are gradually going down the road of speculation... But their ambition lies elsewhere: to pass on their passion, tenacity and pugnacity to new generations of winegrowers, so that these exceptional Anjou terroirs, which today produce some of the finest wines in the Loire region, can grow even further.
La Revue du Vin de France, March 2025 (Goulvern Le Polles)