Andrew Guard

2020 Pigato DOC Riviera Ligure di Ponente 'U Baccan', Azienda Agricola Bruna

A careful selection of grapes from their oldest vineyards, all over 50 years old. U Baccan, the local dialect word for “boss”, expresses the Pigato variety’s complexity and great personality. First made in 1999, a vintage that still drinks well today. This is aged in Austrian 1000 litre (Stockinger) acacia barrels.

This is very fine and complex with aromatic notes of mango skin and guava alongside salt, lime and seaspray. The mouthfeel is wonderful, it has Ganevat precision and freshness and the complexity extends on the finish. This is certainly the finest Pigato I have tasted and is a wine that represents the finest of Liguria.

Established in 1970 by Riccardo Bruna, Azienda Agricola Bruna is a tiny 7.5 hectare estate consisting of a few specific vineyard plots, all planted on terraced vineyards hewn out of the mountainside at about 250 meters above sea level and only 15km from the Mediterranean. This area is very beautiful and remote and is known for its production of olives, cherries and aromatic herbs, such as rosemary, thyme and sage.

Bruna is currently run by Riccardo’s daughter Francesca and her husband, Roberto. Having spent some time with both of them it is easy to see why the quaity of the wines is so exceptional - there is careful thought, attention to detail, reflection and respect evident in all they do. The estate has worked organically since 2009.

These are rare but very wonderful wines.