Andrew Guard

2025 Côtes du Rhône Blanc 'Vie on y Est', Domaine Gramenon

2025 Côtes du Rhône Blanc 'Vie on y Est' is produced from 60% Viognier 40% Clairette and 10% Bourboulenc and is now kept all in tank to preserve all the freshness and vitality. It has a discreet and floral nose with citrus oil, flowers and mint, lovely poise and harmony. Very pure and finer than usual in the mouth it has lovely supple texture and bright acidity. This is a complex, vibrant, elegant and bright Vie on Y Est and just superb drinking.

Gramenon is one of the great properties in the Southern Rhone, run today Michelle Aubery. The winery takes some finding though and this is perhaps the first indication of the exclusivity and elusiveness of it's wines. These wines are literally impossible to track down. The winery and cellar is located in a remote area of the Drôme, in the small town of Montbrison-sur-Lez. The farm house and cellars are surrounded by rolling hills of vineyards and olive groves. It is truly an incredible place; very relaxing, very serene.

There’s real fruit purity to the aromas and a wonderfully fragrant earthiness that comes forward as her wines open-up. Michelle has taken great efforts to reduce the amount of sulphur that is added to the wines and because she handles the grapes and wines so carefully she is able to add just the smallest amount at bottling. Although you would think this might hinder the ageability of the wines, on the contrary, I’ve found her wines to develop and keep very well. While the wines of Gramenon may not carry revered designations like Chateauneuf-du-Pape, don’t be fooled by thinking that their Cotes-du-Rhone status makes them simple and light. These are not, in fact they are some of the most riveting and rare wines from the entire Rhone Valley.