Andrew Guard

2022 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett, Hofgut Falkenstein

The 2022er Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett Schorsch (the reference to this internal cask name is provided in small print on the label after the AP number) is made from fruit harvested on vines planted in the 1990s and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It has a slightly reserved yet elegant nose of white orchard fruits, cassis, blackberry, minty herbs, almond cream, and fresh herbs. The wine shows a superb creamy feel on the light-weighted and pure palate, and leaves a very spicy and herbal finish. 2027-2037 92pts - Mosel Fine Wines   

Erich Weber of Hofgut Falkenstein makes ultra-traditional, mostly dry-tasting Saar Rieslings. He likes to call himself “Winzer Weber.” Winzer is German for winegrower. In other words, the emphasis is on the work in his vineyards. With his tan and rugged face, he looks the part, too.

Erich ferments exclusively with wild yeasts in old wooden casks in a deep, cool cellar, and most of his wines end up either naturally dry (trocken) or off-dry (feinherb). Falkenstein, therefore, is one of the rare Saar producers that specializes in distinctive, bracing, light, dry Rieslings, bottled traditionally by the cask.

Falkenstein makes light-bodied, tangy, wholesome, dry-tasting Saar Rieslings, as well as residually sweet Spätlesen and Auslesen. These are old-style wines for drinking, which often retain a lively (spritzig), natural efferverscence from fermentation. In other words, they go down well — Trinkfluss in German. © 2014 Lars Carlberg