Ardèche
Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet
Ardèche, St. Joseph & St. Epine
BackgroundThe Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet was created in 1993 by Hervé Souhaut. His holdings on the acidic granite soils of the northern Rhone and the southern Ardèche are a mixture of new and ancient vines — from 50 to100 years old. Hervé's holdings are minuscule, only five hectares and he employs only organic viticulture and natural winemaking techniques. This domaine is one of the most revered producers of natural wine in France.
The Vin de Pays "Syrah" grapes come from a tiny parcel of land along the slopes of the Doux River and the vines are on average 40 years old. At the end of September, the grapes are harvested and then undergo a very long maceration at a low temperature without desteming. The wine is then matured on the lees in second-hand oak casks for six months and then bottled without being filtered. Cool climate Syrah tends to have very dynamic aromatics and this gem has one of the most explosive noses I have experienced in quite some time. Violets, fresh coffee (but no oak used), black cherry and wet stone all interplay nicely as they billow out of the glass. The palate echoes the aroma however deep black cherry, cool plum and fresh strawberry flavours dominate. The tannins that gradually frame the finish are in the featherweight division and only serve to highlight the vibrant components this stellar Syrah possesses. This wine is a must taste for all as it’s ripe and pure at just 12 % alc/vol !
The Vin de Pays "La Souteronne" is made from very old Gamay grapes - the vines are between 60 to 80 years old. Winemaking involves a long maceration at low temperature, without destemming the grapes and the juice is matured on the fine lees, in second-hand oak casks. It is then bottled without filtration. The SO2 is less than 25mg/l when bottled. This is a truly superb Gamay with mountain freshness and a lovely mineral edge.
Of the two red Saint Josephs (again using whole bunches) the Saint-Epine, from one hundred year old Syrah vines grown on the eponymous south facing slope combines exotic perfumed fruit and spice with glorious purity. The proximity of this famous south facing slope to the Hermitage hill and the recognised quality of it's terroir means that it produce's easily the finest and most mineral expression of Saint Joseph.
The AOC Saint Joseph is delightfully fresh, a reminder that this variety can possess real finesse in the right hands.
WineAll vines are grown ecologically with no systemics or herbicides. In the winery, Souhaut wants to interact as little as possible with the juice so the wines are fermented with natural yeasts only and his winemaking techniques are old-fashioned; no de-stemming, long maceration, long fermentation, no temperature control, old barrels, no chaptalising and only as little as possible adding of sulphur before bottling (total SO2 less than 20 mg/L). These are stunning wines that are worthy of the attention of all wine lovers. As these wines are on strict allocation, I am very grateful to have secured a small quantity for Australia.
Rhône Valley - North