Mâconnais
Philippe Valette - New
Chaintré
WinePhilippe
Valette continues on in his father's footsteps by producing incredible
wines, packed with personality. These wines, like Antoine Arena's or
Jean Foillard's, are revered in France and little known outside it.
Valette
farms 17 hectares of which 10 hectares are located in Mâcon-Chaintré
where the soils are a mix of clay and limestone and the vines are pruned
back hard for lower yields - the Valettes do a huge amount of work
amongst the vines to maximise the expression of their terroir and
Valette's wines are noted for their concentration. In the vineyards
Philippe does not use any systemic sprays, herbicides or insecticides.
The vines average 45 years over the entire property and we all know
what vine age contributes to fine wine.
The grapes are picked fully
ripe producing rich but very fresh and mineral wines with fabulous
complexity and also great aging potential.
I often find myself
in the cellars and homes of the winemakers that we work with and those
that we would like to work with and it is interesting to see the
bottles that have been kept by them that sit empty in their homes and
cellars. I think it would be fair to say that those of Valette have
been the most prominent and when remarked upon, his work is respected
and adored.
WinesVinification is all natural:
no sulphur, no cultured yeasts, no chaptalization, no acidification - no augmentation at all. Elevage is for twenty-four months on fine lees in
tank (20%) and older barrels (80%). The way Philippe Valette works is
similar that of Claude Maréchal in the Cote de Beaune which is to say
meticulous care of the vineyards and a way of making wine with minimal
intervention in a natural manner. The result is extravagant but very
elegant Chardonnays. All graceful, delicate and exciting with beautiful
fresh acid and without the flatness and boredom that wine from this
region can often possess.
Céline & Laurent Tripoz
Loché
BackgroundDomaine Tripoz is certified Biodynamic and in addition to that the vineyard work is much what one would expect from a quality-conscious estate: severe pruning, de-budding and leaf-plucking (exclusively on the side facing the rising sun). Green harvesting is only employed however when deemed absolutely necessary. The harvest date is timed to ensure that the grapes are brought in at optimum maturity, thus avoiding the need for any additions later on in the winemaking process. The bunches are collected in cases which are taken directly to the cellar to encourage as little damage to the grapes as possible - and by extension as little oxidation - prior to pressing. It should also be noted that in keeping with their non-interventionist philosophy, additions of sulphur are kept to a strict minimum in the cellar.
I discovered these terrific wines two years ago whilst sitting in a restaurant (Caves Madeleine) in Beaune waiting for a friend to join me. I thought I'd have a glass of white whilst I waited and so chose a glass of the Mâcon-Vinzelles from Tripoz. Fresh, vigorous, precise and detailed with none of the orangey flavour, oaky richness or simple fatness that often turns me away from the Mâconnais. I noted them as an address to visit and so I went to meet them this year.
WineTheir house, winery, bottling line and cellar are all under the same roof right opposite the town hall in the sleepy village of Loché, about 10 minutes south of the main town of Mâcon. It gets said a lot but you really couldn't meet nicer people.
Of the two wines I offer, the Mâcon-Vinzelles 'Les Morandes' is tightly wound, fine and mineral. Itís mouth-watering and delicious . The Mâcon-Loché 'Les Chenes' is matured in barrel and displays the evident subtle nuance and inflection. It's a richer and displays fine harmony and complexity. Both are terrific value.
Beaujolais